Occasionally you come upon a word that is perfectly sensible in the native language but means something totally different to those who speak a different tongue. Brasserie de Silly is just one such case. But whereas the "Mad Brewers" (De Dolle Brouwers) of Diksmuide in Flanders intentionally gave themselves an unusual tag, the Silly brewers have a perfectly rational explanation. The name comes from the fact that it is located in the centre of the village of Silly, which in turn takes its name from the River Sylle.

The brewery hasn't always been called Silly, however. When it was founded in 1850 it went under the name Cense de la Tour before later being re-christened Mynsbrughen after the family name of the current owner's mother. The final chapter of the story was in 1974 when the present name was chosen, apparently because it was easier to remember and gave a greater affinity with the area, thereby generating more local loyalty. Another consideration might have been that there were originally three breweries in the village but by 1974 it was the sole survivor thereby picking up the mantle as "the" Silly brewery.

The range of beers at Silly is vast - even after taking into account the label beers - although it should be noted that some appear to be based on other brews. Sixteen is a lot of different beers to justify in terms of production, promotion and marketing but the brewery seems to be doing well in Wallonia and exports are on the increase. Not only is there a huge range, there is also an unusually diverse amount of bottle sizes - for instance Scotch de Silly comes in 25cl, 33cl, 75cl, 150cl and on draught!

Despite the breadth and diversity of the range we find there is a distinctive house character to most of its ales (John often describes this as a vegetable taste, Keith identifies it as tannic fruit).

Perhaps best known of its products is Saison de Silly, which is sold in most of the local bars on draught and represents a good example of what the brewery is all about. The Saison, along with its Super 64 and Brug Ale, shows that the brewery is still promoting honest, good quality, traditional, local ales, many of which have been made for decades. A point of concern, though, is that Silly Pils is growing in popularity and now accounts for about 40% of the brewery's total annual output.

The taking over, in 1975, of the Tennstedt Decroes brewery in the nearby town of Enghien introduced the Spéciale Double Enghien (now called Double Enghien Brune) to the range, the popularity of which prompted the brewery to introduce a Blonde version in 1992.

Silly still make two table beers which, like those of Brasserie Gigi, have a character absent in the nationally-marketed contemporaries from the major brewers. Didier van der Haegen, the present owner of Silly, informed us that Belgian children once had the choice of drinking either table beer or milk at school, and believes the demise of ales (compared to the bottom fermented beers the younger generation now prefer) started when table beer was dropped by the education authorities. When he was elected as representative of small breweries at the CBB he was horrified to find that school parties visiting its museum were not offered a glass of table beer - a situation which has now been resolved.

Hopefully drinkers will remember the Silly brewery for its beers rather than its name. And if an Englishman starts making his beer under the name "Bête Brewery", perhaps the Walloons will then understand what's in a name.

THE BEER RANGE

Bock

2.7% Alc/vol. Available in 33cl bottles

It has a commendably interesting taste for such a weak beer. There is a touch of citric hop to the sweet malt base. The beer is produced by blending Royale Blonde and Silly Pils. It is also sold as Triple Bock.

Brug Ale

5% Alc/vol. Available in 33cl bottles

This beer has been brewed since 1940 and has the typically "Silly" fruity ale characteristics which add to its interesting taste.

Double Enghien Blonde

7.5% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl, 75cl & 150cl bottles and on draught.

A full malt based aroma and a full fruity malty palate plus a long lasting and interesting finish make this a characterful ale. It is also easy to drink with a pleasant smooth creamy texture and displays many typically Walloon traits.

Double Enghien Brune

8% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl, 33cl, 75cl & 150cl bottles.

An overtly fruity beer redeemed by good use of hops in the palate and a strong "after dinner" finish. First brewed in 1860 and taken on by Silly in 1975 when they bought the Tennstedt Decroes brewery. It used to be known as Spéciale Double Enghien.

La Divine

9.5% Alc/vol. Available in 33cl bottles and on draught.

Frighteningly easy to drink at 9.5%. Uncompromisingly strong, dark and fruity (perhaps a little over fruity) but distinctly Wallonian ale. The name and the chapel on the label help substantiate the brewery's claim that it in the abbey style.

Royale Blonde

1.5% Alc/vol. Available in 33cl & 75cl bottles.

A pleasant enough table beer with more character than most of the mass market brands. When blended with Silly Pils it becomes Bock or Triple Bock.

Saison de Silly

5% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl & 75cl bottles and on draught.

A good example of an honest fruity saison beer - perhaps too fruity for some. First brewed around the start of the century it is a blend of a number of different saison brews, some of which may be well over a year old.

Scotch de Silly

8% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl, 33cl, 75cl & 150cl bottles and on draught.

 A wonderful, easy drinking Scotch ale. Not particularly traditional in character but thankfully has not followed the trend towards insipidity. It is fairly complex and rich, malty, fruity taste with a fair degree of pear-drop alcohol.

Silbrau Dort

6% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl bottles.

Silly's attempt at a Dortmunder style lager and it works but is a little too one dimensional to be of any great interest. Essentially it is Silly Pils with added sugar.

Silly Pils

4.8% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl bottles and on draught.

A pleasant and interesting tasting Pils with a smoother than usual texture and a caressing mouthfeel. It was first brewed in 1948 and until recently was known as Myn's Pils.

Super 64

5% Alc/vol. Available in 25cl bottles.

This is a very difficult beer to categorise. It has both malty fruit and strong tannic hops in its character and an amazing amount of body and taste for its strength. With different conditioning this becomes Abbaye de Cambron as sold at Le Domain at Cambron-Casteau.